I have the URLid extension. I just don't know what to do from there? How do I copy the CSS file to the chrome folder? What chrome folder?

grrr

http://persistent.info/archives/2004/10/05/gmail-skinning

nev mind. I'm such a jackass. missed the 3rd step

I did everything instructed..... gmail looks exactly the same.

Anthony, there were two CSS files when I tried, and only one is the right one. Make sure you catch it:
http://blogoscoped.com/archive/2004_10_06_index.html#109708132947771219